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In Pursuit Of The Best Hamburger
Last weekend I got this uncontrollable urge to eat some meat. Not just any meat, but a juicy hamburger. I
wanted a hamburger like I use to enjoy as a child, not a fast food hockey puck. I grew up in the 50s when
MacDonald’s was a twinkle in someone’s eye and fast food was nonexistent.
For the best burger in Dallas in those days, it was a tie between Kel’s Kitchen and Goff’s (both still in
existence and both distinctively different).
Not being made of money, I had to use my resources and remain in St. Louis, explore my options and seek
out "The best (in my opinion) in the Lou."
Carl’s Drive In, 9033 Manchester Road, is two blocks from my house in Brentwood. It has been there for a
million years. Okay this is an exaggeration — half a million years. This quaint "root beer stand" is a must
experience. This is the Ted Drewes of burgers.
As one enters the east side of the building, there is a row of permanent stools and a counter. Behind the
counter, in the center of this small roadside house is the grill area. Across the way is a mirror image
counter and seating area. To get to that seating area, you have to go outside and walk around the building
and into another entrance.
The menu is straightforward: hamburgers — single, double or triple; foot long dogs with or without chili;
tamales; fries, onion rings, etc. AND barrel root beer in frosted mugs.
I bellied up to the counter and ordered what I was a-hankering for — a burger: mustard, relish, onions and
pickles, catsup on the side, an order of fries and a large tanker of root beer.
I watched as the cook behind the counter pulled from an under-counter refrigerator a small puck of ground
beef, threw it on the grill and smashed it down with an oversized spatula. It sizzled. She turned and threw a
handful of fries into a wire basket and dropped it into hot oil. (I think it’s oil!). She toiled like an artist, working
quickly, moving deftly within her four-foot work space, orchestrating and juggling several orders — and
getting them right.
The burgers come one way — cooked — so don’t try to order rare or medium. I checked under the bun to
make sure everything was there. Yes, onion, pickle, mustard and relish. Just like what I had at Kel’s Kitchen
in Dallas as a child for breakfast on Saturday mornings. But would it taste the same? Would it bring back a
flood of memories? Is this a great burger?
I reassembled my burger, dipped a side of the bun into catsup and brought it to my mouth. I bit down; the
taste — nirvana, the memories — better than a $150 session with a shrink. Carl’s Drive In is my oasis. My
Kel’s away from Kel’s. It is everything I remember from yesterday and "yesterday, life was just an easy
game to play …"
And then I washed it down with a sea of root beer. The size-large is almost too much to drink — I said
"almost." It is so good, I wouldn’t waste a drop.
That evening it was off to the Boathouse in Forest Park for the Balloon Glow. What an experience. This
newly renovated landmark is a must-see experience. My friend and I sat inside the dining room. This glass
enclosed space with stone fireplace emanates the feeling of a clubhouse except you overlook the lake with
paddle and row boats.
We ordered burgers. I guess they only come one way here as well, since Christy, our server didn’t ask how
we wanted them cooked. We also ordered seasoned fries and a basket of homemade chips and the
house slaw.
As we waited for our order, we sipped our beers and watched the parade of balloon watchers. We noticed
that the Boathouse offers brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. My friend and I
discussed what a great thing to do on the weekend: jog to Forest Park, do a morning row and then enjoy
brunch. Okay, I can see driving to Forest Park, having him row the boat and then enjoying the brunch.
The menu at the Boathouse is simple, straightforward, appetizing and well executed. Brunch looks even
better.
The burgers were well cooked and presented "club" style with lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion stacked on
the side. After I prepped my burger to my taste (I added tomato, onion and catsup to the bun), I bit down. It
was delicious; the fries were great and the homemade chips, out of this world.
My friend and I agreed this is a great spot to go to enjoy a pizza or burger, watch the sunset or get some
exercise. This is a great St. Louis landmark, one where the beauty of Forest Park and the excellent food of
Catering Saint Louis will prove to be a marriage made in heaven.
I still wanted a burger that is a true piece of beef — one that can be ordered rare to cremated or somewhere
in between.
The best burger I have found in St. Louis is at O’Connell’s Pub, 4652 Shaw, at the corner of Kingshighway
and Shaw. Thanks to John and Suzanne who urged me to try O’Connell’s, despite my reluctance because
they serve on paper plates and my royal disposition requires china.
I ordered my burger rare with catsup and onions only. This is my purist nature.
(At Burger King, I order catsup and onions only. For fast food burgers: Burger King and only Burger King!)
The burger came. It was perfection. O’Connell’s offers a burger for those who are burger aficionados.
There is nothing more I can say about this burger. It is worth the trip for a burger like you would make at
home.
So my weekend was spent exploring for burgers. A safari that took me to the corners of my world and
raised my cholesterol about 30 points. It was worth it; it was delicious. Guess I better get to the Boathouse
and row myself back into shape. (And the pizza did look really good there!)
The Vital Voice - 2003 Review
Kel's is the best place to eat in Dallas by far. D magazine has them in there top 25 for chicken fried steak
and I know why. They have the most and best veggies to choose from. Big fan of the fried mushrooms and
fried okra. The service there is great. They treat you like family every time. If you haven't checked them out I
totally suggest you do so tonight.
Yelp's Reviews of Kel's
There was a post in Yelp Talk recently where people made the statement that every restaurant has the
chance to get five stars. Well, this is my perfect example of that type of place. While I did not give it five
stars, I wanted to because it is good, cheap, quick and well, did I mention good? I mean, in comparing to
"fine dining" establishments, Kel's would be a one or two but in its own right as a greasy spoon, it is tough
to beat. In the three weeks since we discovered this place (thanks to Yelp), we have been three times. It is
perfect for a hangover or a waffle hankering. The biscuits and gravy are awesome and the migas, while
different than most I have had, are wonderful, especially topped with the homemade salsa.
This place is not for the faint at heart. Seriously, do not go if you have heart problems! I am pretty sure
there is nothing good for you on the menu so we are going to have to get over this craving before I gain
more weight. So, why not the five stars? While the bacon is good and the hash browns are crispy, I am
pretty sure the grease sitting on my plate is not a good sign for my heart or butt and kind of grosses me
out...not enough to keep me from returning or complaining but enough to keep me from giving 5 stars. But
the big kicker is that they only have Diet RC and it is disgusting. Putting things in perspective, it does have
that old school diner charm but I need some Diet Coke to wash down the buttery delicious veggie omelet.
Vegans beware...enter at your own risk. The chicken fried steaks are as big as my head. I am still dying to
try it.
Kel's Restaurant and Club
Author: Harry Bowman Staff Writer of The Dallas Morning News
Publish Date: May 7, 1993
Word Count: 505
Document ID: 0ED3D38544D16D2A
Food ***
Service ***
Atmosphere **1/2
You'd never mistake Kel's for anyplace else. The restaurant-club sits snugly in the shadow of the Dallas
North Tollway. The dark-wood-and-brick interior is not likely to find its way into the pages of Architectural
Digest. It's a no-frills sort of place; its only gimmick is good food that appeals to a lively cross section of
people.
Dallas Morning News Reviews
Poultry in motion
Your dining wingman checked out nearly 30 restaurants that serve fried chicken.
This is his report on its changing role in the culinary landscape.
Author: BILL ADDISON Restaurant Critic billaddison@dallasnews.com
Publish Date: March 28, 2008
Word Count: 3395
Document ID: 11FB584788CA80E8
The list of foods seared into the American consciousness as ours, as near-universally accepted and
unshakably patriotic, is actually rather short.
Burgers lead the roster. Pancakes and barbecue follow. I'd argue that ice cream ranks higher these days
than apple pie. And though its Italian origins will probably never recede fully into the melting pot, we've
permanently adopted pizza as our own.
Then there's fried chicken.
Those two words together...
More Dallas Morning News Reviews
They started from sketch
`Nickelodeon' comedy duotakes burger skit to big screen
Author: Beth Pinsker Staff Critic of The Dallas Morning News
Publish Date: July 26, 1997
Word Count: 1233
Document ID: 0ED3D9314E82BAB6
The comedy duo Kenan and Kel look like they're ready for Saturday Night Live or Mad TV when they're
dressed up as Mavis and Clavis, two stooped-over, bearded old men with pants pulled up to their armpits.
But unlike their late-night counterparts, these 19-year-olds don't spew raunchy invectives or touch body
parts. They do sketch comedy on prime time - Nickelodeon prime time, at that.
"Saturday night, baby," says Kenan Thompson...
More Dallas Morning News Reviews
BEST BITES
Author: Waltrina Stovall Restaurant Critic of The Dallas Morning News
Publish Date: July 26, 1996
Word Count: 406
Document ID: 0ED3D6BC23303A59
STARTER: You can't tell by its name, but Chinatown at Forest Lane and Marsh has an extensive
Vietnamese section. No surprise, though: The cafe is owned by Hahn Huynh and her husband, Hung
Nguyen, who ran the old La Pagode in East Dallas from 1989 to 1993....
More Dallas Morning News Reviews
Fans of CFS fit to be fried
Cuisine criticism spurs list of the places they love
Author: Donnis Baggett
Publish Date: July 17, 1994
Word Count: 584
Document ID: 0ED3D4CDD4A94C54
Chicken-fried steak lovers are fried to a crisp.
A few weeks back I teed off on food critic Alan Richman, who wrote in Bon Appetit that he's never found a
good chicken-fried steak. I asked you to tell him where to go. You were happy to oblige. Paul Lynch, the chef
in charge of Cafe on the Green at the Four Seasons, says CFS is the consistent favorite for the hotel's room
service. Foreign guests take to it like bears to honey...
More Dallas Morning News Reviews
KEL'S
Author: Shermakaye Bass The Dallas Morning News (DAL) + _____
Publish Date: February 3, 1989
Word Count: 425
Document ID: 0ED3D0552668A88D
KEL'S Food **1/2 Service **1/2 Atmosphere **
Like its rural brethren, Kel's is a sought-after oasis for hungry travelers, a place that inspires visions of
chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, homemade biscuits and gravy. But it's a truckstop without a convoy,
a roadhouse without a jukebox -- heaven forbid, it's a real-live diner in North Dallas.
But heaven didn't forbid it, and there Kel's is and has been for 26...
More Dallas Morning News Reviews
MINI-REVIEWS
Author: The Dallas Morning News (DAL) + _____
Publish Date: November 21, 1986
Word Count: 2124
Document ID: 0ED3CECCE7C5EFDD
LA MANSION DE BLAS Food Service Atmosphere
With other commuters to downtown via Deep Ellum, I've watched this new corner Mexican restaurant take
shape, across the street from the Mozzarella Company on Elm Street. With proprietor Joe Blas Manzanares
apparently doing much of the work himself, completion was slow.
Then one day a sign appeared: "NOW SERVING DINNER!' and Mansion de Blas' slow-momentum days
were over. About time, too -- East...
More Dallas Morning News Reviews
D Magazine MARCH 1989, Posted On: 3/1/1989
RESTAURANTS THE OLD MASTERS
MARY BROWN MALOUF
Twenty-five years is a long time in Dallas, a city where it seems the newest is always the best, where
trends hardly have time to happen before they're gone and the next one looms. That goes double for the
restaurant business; eating out is Dallas's favorite recreation, and the most common complaint of local
restaurateurs is the fickleness of Dallas diners, who count themselves out of it if they're not seen at the
latest hot spot the week it opens. Twenty-five years ago things were different. This was a city just beginning
to crest. Dallas had only one skyline then. LBJ was a muddy ditch. Piano was way out of town, and Addison
was dry. Food was a different story, too. There were no That, Ethiopian, Vietnamese, or Korean restaurants.
Chinese food was Cantonese; Italian food meant red sauce. Seafood was fried, or broiled and sauced-
never blackened or served raw. No one had invented New American; Cajun food was still across the river
and back in the bayous.
Formal dinners then were French, or they fit into that vague category known as "Continental." Lovers Lane,
the Miracle Mile, was home to a triumvirate of the best of these: Mr. Peppe, Marcel's, and Dominique's.
Expense account favorites for the two-martini-lunch bunch were Arthur's, Mario's, Old Warsaw, and
Chateaubriand. Steak was still the ail-American meal-Dun-ston's was grilling theirs over mesquite long
before mesquite was chic, not just cheap.
What's surprising is how many of these names are still familiar. They may not be as visible as the new kids
in town, but they do steady business and fill a valued niche in Dallas's dining scene. Most of them have
survived this long not just because they serve good food, but because they possess a certain personality-
an aura created by owners who come in every night and waitresses who have been there, in some cases,
for twenty years. Swimming against the current, these places offer their customers the comforts of tradition
and dependability rather than the shock of the new.
Some of the old restaurants have come and gone, and then come again, like the reborn Chateaubriand;
some, like S & S Tearoom, have moved and changed so completely with the times that only the name
remains to remind us of how it used to be. Some have proliferated into chains, like El Fenix and El Chico,
but most of them are still what they once were, unchanged by waves of radicchio and lemon grass,
untouched by celebrity chefs or gourmet pizza. Still standing proud are some grandes-dames as big, posh,
and expensive as ever: Mario's, Old Warsaw, Arthur's. Other mem-bers of the twenty-five-year club include a
couple of Mexican places and a couple of old-style Italian ones (Pietro's and Il Sorrento). Filling out the list
are a number of low-profile, unpretentious neighborhood coffee shops and cafés-Kel's Restaurant, the
Hungry Jockey. The Mecca- kept alive not by transient herds of trendies, but by neighborhood businesses
whose employees enjoy a friendly break and a home-style meal in the middle of a busy day.
Following are reviews of some of my favorite golden oldies, plus an all-star roster of restaurants that have
celebrated their silver anniversaries.
Mr. Peppe
In December, the rumor mill had it that Mr. Peppe was leaving-the last of the fine old dining establishments
to desert the Miracle Mile. As it turns out, the rumor was both right and wrong. Albert Schaufel-berger, "Mr.
Peppe" to many of us, has gone, but Mr. Peppe, which has been serving Swiss-French cuisine from that
same location for thirty-one good years, is definitely staying put.
The place looks much as it always did-a pastel mural of a Swiss landscape covers one wall, a mock wine
cellar under brick arches decorates the other half of the room. And the menu is certainly familiar-crabmeat
Peggy, artichoke Elizabeth, sautéed sole, chocolate mousse. Order the pepper steak-a flavorful cut flamed
tableside expertly and discreetly-or that delicious dinosaur, beef Wellington. The fish is unflamboyantly
prepared- simply sauced and accurately cooked-and the specials are generally a good bet. The price of an
entree includes a salad, soup, and vegetable, adding up to an excellent bargain. Service is old-style
excellent-overseen in the past by the ever-present Albert and now by the new owner. Barnaby
Schrenkheisen. owner of the now-defunct Schrenkheisen's in Rockport. Schrenkheisen, who celebrated
his own wedding in the restaurant, jumped at the chance when he heard that Schaufel-berger was ready to
sell. "But a lot of peopie still expect to see Albert here," he admits. "People celebrate their weddings, births,
anniversaries, even divorces, here, and they think Albert is part of their family." To make the transition
easier, Albert continued to come in for several months, saying adieu to long-time customers and
introducing them to the new "Mr. Peppe '
Casa Dominguez
Tex-Mex they come, Tex-Mex they go, but Dominguez (the casa and the man) endures. Pete Dominguez is
usually to be found at the original Cedar Springs location (though he now owns several sibling
restaurants), still greeting regulars by name and introducing himself to newcomers. Pete moved to Dallas
from Austin in 1957 and opened Casa Dominguez in 1963, serving "Austin-style" Mexican food. There's a
large population of Dallasites (not all of them Texas Exes), who think that's the best kind, so Dominguez
was an immediate hit and has remained popular ever since. If you doubt it's so, check out the walls; they're
covered with testimonials and autographed photographs from his celebrated clientele. If you wonder why
it's so, check out the food. The chips are fresh, hot, and replenished often. The hot sauce is flavorful and
hot. The nachos are smothered in beans and cheese, the enchiladas in rich chili. The "Pete-za" is as great
a combination of classic ingredients as a frito pie: taco meat, jalapenos, cheese, and onions sandwiched
in a sautéed flour tortilla and topped with a scoop of guacamole. Everything is as it should be-and if it's not,
Dominguez is there to find out why.
Highland Park Pharmacy
It is my feeling that a grilled cheese and a chocolate shake at Highland Park Pharmacy will go a long way
toward curing what ails you-whether you're soul-sick, heartsick, or just plain old sick. There are those who
disagree-who believe that nothing will do, in extremis, but a chocolate soda and a "Palm Beach" (pimento
cheese, to the uninitiated). No matter; it may not be the incomparable counter cuisine that does the trick
anyway, but the fact that the Pharmacy is, literally, incomparable. There are few drugstore soda fountains
left, and the reassuring feeling that this is a place where Wal-ly, the Beav, and even the Nelson family would
feel right at home has its own restorative value. There's nothing cute or quaint about the Pharmacy-tiny two-
top tables are the ugliest possible brown Formica, counter stools are standard. "Functional" is the most
upbeat comment you could make about the furnishings, and while the service is highly efficient, it's not
necessarily cheerful. The upbeat part of the Pharmacy experience comes from your fellow eaters-there's a
friendship factor at work when you're lined up elbow-to-elbow with strangers. People gladly slide over to
make a double out of two singles, and they're happy to tell you they'll be leaving soon if there's not a stool in
sight.
II Sorrento
I can't help imagining that Paul Draper, designer of the famous Sfuzzi interiors with their classical
architecture and crumbling frescoes, ate at Il Sorrento as a child. Surely, the Disneyesque completeness of
those Italian arcades, fake piazzas, courtyards, and classical statues was an early inspiration, It may seem
a little corny now, but the extravagance of it all still gives you the heady feeling of having walked into a
Hollywood fantasy-red and gold carpet in all directions, the dark ceiling like a night sky overhead, service
with a flourish, and all of it set against the background music of a strolling accordion player (the theme from
The Godfather is a favorite request). Most of the food ranks as classic Fifties Italian. Seafood is prepared
with lots of garlic, lemon, and olive oil; the man with the breadbox around his neck is ever ready to serve you
another hot roll. Lasagna is thick, cheesy, and heavily sauced: fresh tortellini comes with cheese and
cream. "Light" is not a word you would use to describe many things on the menu, but subtlety is not what
we seek at this Cyrano of Italian restaurants-we come here for its irresistible panache.
Mario's
My parents believed that children should learn how to eat out. So once a year or so they would stretch the
family budget and their patience and take all three of us kids out to eat Someplace Really Nice. Someplace
they would rather go by themselves. One New Year's Eve when I was about eleven, they took us all to
Mario's. I still remember the dark red rooms and the glittering Venetian glass, the sip of wine I was allowed
and the chicken Kiev my father ordered for me. It was the ultimate in eating out, and I felt as glamorous as a
movie star. Mario's still makes you feel that way, and it's been serving Dallas diners for nearly forty-five
years. In that time it's had its ups and downs; right now. with former chef Antonio Avona back in the kitchen,
it seems to be on an upswing. The gently Italian menu is executed with confidence-cannelloni with meat
and spinach was lovely, the Caesar salad classic. The sausage and cheese lasagna ("Pope John's
favorite dish"), was rich; the veal Milanesa surprisingly light. It will be interesting to see what changes Avona
will make on his new menu-the list could use some sparkle, but you don't want to tamper with tradition too
much. Meanwhile. Mario's still lays on the luxury; whenever I go there, I think of my children, remember my
parents, and marvel. Dallas Oldies But Goodies
Arthur's, 8350 N. Central Expwy. Brownie's, 5519 East Grand. Burger House, 6913 Hillcrest. Campisi's
Egyptian Restaurant, 5610 Mockingbird.
Casa Dominguez, 2127 Cedar Springs. Dean's Seafood Restaurant, 7801 Inwood. Highland Park
Cafeteria, 4611 Cole at Knox.
Highland Park Pharmacy, 3229 Knox. Hong Kong Restaurant, 9055 Garland Rd. Hungry Jockey, 1417
Preston Forest Square.
Il Sorrento, 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. Kel's Restaurant, 5337 Forest Lane. Kuby's Sausage House, 6601
Snider Plaza.
Mario's Restaurant, 135 Turtle Creek Village.
Mecca Restaurant, 10422 Harry Hines. Mr. Peppe, 5617 Lovers Lane. Old Warsaw Restaurant, 2610 Maple.
Pietro's Italian Restaurant, 5722 Richmond.
Prince of Hamburgers, 5200 Lemmon. Red Bryan's Smokehouse, 3383 Lombardy. S&S Restaurant, 260
Inwood Village. Sonny Bryan's Smokehouse, 2202 Inwood. Southern Kitchen, 2356 W. Northwest Hwy.
Vincent's, 3004 W. Northwest Hwy.
D Magazine Review
Last weekend I got this uncontrollable urge to eat some meat. Not just any meat, but a juicy hamburger. I
wanted a hamburger like I use to enjoy as a child, not a fast food hockey puck. I grew up in the 50s when
MacDonald’s was a twinkle in someone’s eye and fast food was nonexistent.
For the best burger in Dallas in those days, it was a tie between Kel’s Kitchen and Goff’s (both still in
existence and both distinctively different).
Not being made of money, I had to use my resources and remain in St. Louis, explore my options and seek
out "The best (in my opinion) in the Lou."
Carl’s Drive In, 9033 Manchester Road, is two blocks from my house in Brentwood. It has been there for a
million years. Okay this is an exaggeration — half a million years. This quaint "root beer stand" is a must
experience. This is the Ted Drewes of burgers.
As one enters the east side of the building, there is a row of permanent stools and a counter. Behind the
counter, in the center of this small roadside house is the grill area. Across the way is a mirror image
counter and seating area. To get to that seating area, you have to go outside and walk around the building
and into another entrance.
The menu is straightforward: hamburgers — single, double or triple; foot long dogs with or without chili;
tamales; fries, onion rings, etc. AND barrel root beer in frosted mugs.
I bellied up to the counter and ordered what I was a-hankering for — a burger: mustard, relish, onions and
pickles, catsup on the side, an order of fries and a large tanker of root beer.
I watched as the cook behind the counter pulled from an under-counter refrigerator a small puck of ground
beef, threw it on the grill and smashed it down with an oversized spatula. It sizzled. She turned and threw a
handful of fries into a wire basket and dropped it into hot oil. (I think it’s oil!). She toiled like an artist, working
quickly, moving deftly within her four-foot work space, orchestrating and juggling several orders — and
getting them right.
The burgers come one way — cooked — so don’t try to order rare or medium. I checked under the bun to
make sure everything was there. Yes, onion, pickle, mustard and relish. Just like what I had at Kel’s Kitchen
in Dallas as a child for breakfast on Saturday mornings. But would it taste the same? Would it bring back a
flood of memories? Is this a great burger?
I reassembled my burger, dipped a side of the bun into catsup and brought it to my mouth. I bit down; the
taste — nirvana, the memories — better than a $150 session with a shrink. Carl’s Drive In is my oasis. My
Kel’s away from Kel’s. It is everything I remember from yesterday and "yesterday, life was just an easy
game to play …"
And then I washed it down with a sea of root beer. The size-large is almost too much to drink — I said
"almost." It is so good, I wouldn’t waste a drop.
That evening it was off to the Boathouse in Forest Park for the Balloon Glow. What an experience. This
newly renovated landmark is a must-see experience. My friend and I sat inside the dining room. This glass
enclosed space with stone fireplace emanates the feeling of a clubhouse except you overlook the lake with
paddle and row boats.
We ordered burgers. I guess they only come one way here as well, since Christy, our server didn’t ask how
we wanted them cooked. We also ordered seasoned fries and a basket of homemade chips and the
house slaw.
As we waited for our order, we sipped our beers and watched the parade of balloon watchers. We noticed
that the Boathouse offers brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. My friend and I
discussed what a great thing to do on the weekend: jog to Forest Park, do a morning row and then enjoy
brunch. Okay, I can see driving to Forest Park, having him row the boat and then enjoying the brunch.
The menu at the Boathouse is simple, straightforward, appetizing and well executed. Brunch looks even
better.
The burgers were well cooked and presented "club" style with lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion stacked on
the side. After I prepped my burger to my taste (I added tomato, onion and catsup to the bun), I bit down. It
was delicious; the fries were great and the homemade chips, out of this world.
My friend and I agreed this is a great spot to go to enjoy a pizza or burger, watch the sunset or get some
exercise. This is a great St. Louis landmark, one where the beauty of Forest Park and the excellent food of
Catering Saint Louis will prove to be a marriage made in heaven.
I still wanted a burger that is a true piece of beef — one that can be ordered rare to cremated or somewhere
in between.
The best burger I have found in St. Louis is at O’Connell’s Pub, 4652 Shaw, at the corner of Kingshighway
and Shaw. Thanks to John and Suzanne who urged me to try O’Connell’s, despite my reluctance because
they serve on paper plates and my royal disposition requires china.
I ordered my burger rare with catsup and onions only. This is my purist nature.
(At Burger King, I order catsup and onions only. For fast food burgers: Burger King and only Burger King!)
The burger came. It was perfection. O’Connell’s offers a burger for those who are burger aficionados.
There is nothing more I can say about this burger. It is worth the trip for a burger like you would make at
home.
So my weekend was spent exploring for burgers. A safari that took me to the corners of my world and
raised my cholesterol about 30 points. It was worth it; it was delicious. Guess I better get to the Boathouse
and row myself back into shape. (And the pizza did look really good there!)
The Vital Voice - 2003 Review
Kel's is the best place to eat in Dallas by far. D magazine has them in there top 25 for chicken fried steak
and I know why. They have the most and best veggies to choose from. Big fan of the fried mushrooms and
fried okra. The service there is great. They treat you like family every time. If you haven't checked them out I
totally suggest you do so tonight.
Yelp's Reviews of Kel's
There was a post in Yelp Talk recently where people made the statement that every restaurant has the
chance to get five stars. Well, this is my perfect example of that type of place. While I did not give it five
stars, I wanted to because it is good, cheap, quick and well, did I mention good? I mean, in comparing to
"fine dining" establishments, Kel's would be a one or two but in its own right as a greasy spoon, it is tough
to beat. In the three weeks since we discovered this place (thanks to Yelp), we have been three times. It is
perfect for a hangover or a waffle hankering. The biscuits and gravy are awesome and the migas, while
different than most I have had, are wonderful, especially topped with the homemade salsa.
This place is not for the faint at heart. Seriously, do not go if you have heart problems! I am pretty sure
there is nothing good for you on the menu so we are going to have to get over this craving before I gain
more weight. So, why not the five stars? While the bacon is good and the hash browns are crispy, I am
pretty sure the grease sitting on my plate is not a good sign for my heart or butt and kind of grosses me
out...not enough to keep me from returning or complaining but enough to keep me from giving 5 stars. But
the big kicker is that they only have Diet RC and it is disgusting. Putting things in perspective, it does have
that old school diner charm but I need some Diet Coke to wash down the buttery delicious veggie omelet.
Vegans beware...enter at your own risk. The chicken fried steaks are as big as my head. I am still dying to
try it.
Kel's Restaurant and Club
Author: Harry Bowman Staff Writer of The Dallas Morning News
Publish Date: May 7, 1993
Word Count: 505
Document ID: 0ED3D38544D16D2A
Food ***
Service ***
Atmosphere **1/2
You'd never mistake Kel's for anyplace else. The restaurant-club sits snugly in the shadow of the Dallas
North Tollway. The dark-wood-and-brick interior is not likely to find its way into the pages of Architectural
Digest. It's a no-frills sort of place; its only gimmick is good food that appeals to a lively cross section of
people.
Dallas Morning News Reviews
Poultry in motion
Your dining wingman checked out nearly 30 restaurants that serve fried chicken.
This is his report on its changing role in the culinary landscape.
Author: BILL ADDISON Restaurant Critic billaddison@dallasnews.com
Publish Date: March 28, 2008
Word Count: 3395
Document ID: 11FB584788CA80E8
The list of foods seared into the American consciousness as ours, as near-universally accepted and
unshakably patriotic, is actually rather short.
Burgers lead the roster. Pancakes and barbecue follow. I'd argue that ice cream ranks higher these days
than apple pie. And though its Italian origins will probably never recede fully into the melting pot, we've
permanently adopted pizza as our own.
Then there's fried chicken.
Those two words together...
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They started from sketch
`Nickelodeon' comedy duotakes burger skit to big screen
Author: Beth Pinsker Staff Critic of The Dallas Morning News
Publish Date: July 26, 1997
Word Count: 1233
Document ID: 0ED3D9314E82BAB6
The comedy duo Kenan and Kel look like they're ready for Saturday Night Live or Mad TV when they're
dressed up as Mavis and Clavis, two stooped-over, bearded old men with pants pulled up to their armpits.
But unlike their late-night counterparts, these 19-year-olds don't spew raunchy invectives or touch body
parts. They do sketch comedy on prime time - Nickelodeon prime time, at that.
"Saturday night, baby," says Kenan Thompson...
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BEST BITES
Author: Waltrina Stovall Restaurant Critic of The Dallas Morning News
Publish Date: July 26, 1996
Word Count: 406
Document ID: 0ED3D6BC23303A59
STARTER: You can't tell by its name, but Chinatown at Forest Lane and Marsh has an extensive
Vietnamese section. No surprise, though: The cafe is owned by Hahn Huynh and her husband, Hung
Nguyen, who ran the old La Pagode in East Dallas from 1989 to 1993....
More Dallas Morning News Reviews
Fans of CFS fit to be fried
Cuisine criticism spurs list of the places they love
Author: Donnis Baggett
Publish Date: July 17, 1994
Word Count: 584
Document ID: 0ED3D4CDD4A94C54
Chicken-fried steak lovers are fried to a crisp.
A few weeks back I teed off on food critic Alan Richman, who wrote in Bon Appetit that he's never found a
good chicken-fried steak. I asked you to tell him where to go. You were happy to oblige. Paul Lynch, the chef
in charge of Cafe on the Green at the Four Seasons, says CFS is the consistent favorite for the hotel's room
service. Foreign guests take to it like bears to honey...
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KEL'S
Author: Shermakaye Bass The Dallas Morning News (DAL) + _____
Publish Date: February 3, 1989
Word Count: 425
Document ID: 0ED3D0552668A88D
KEL'S Food **1/2 Service **1/2 Atmosphere **
Like its rural brethren, Kel's is a sought-after oasis for hungry travelers, a place that inspires visions of
chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, homemade biscuits and gravy. But it's a truckstop without a convoy,
a roadhouse without a jukebox -- heaven forbid, it's a real-live diner in North Dallas.
But heaven didn't forbid it, and there Kel's is and has been for 26...
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MINI-REVIEWS
Author: The Dallas Morning News (DAL) + _____
Publish Date: November 21, 1986
Word Count: 2124
Document ID: 0ED3CECCE7C5EFDD
LA MANSION DE BLAS Food Service Atmosphere
With other commuters to downtown via Deep Ellum, I've watched this new corner Mexican restaurant take
shape, across the street from the Mozzarella Company on Elm Street. With proprietor Joe Blas Manzanares
apparently doing much of the work himself, completion was slow.
Then one day a sign appeared: "NOW SERVING DINNER!' and Mansion de Blas' slow-momentum days
were over. About time, too -- East...
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D Magazine MARCH 1989, Posted On: 3/1/1989
RESTAURANTS THE OLD MASTERS
MARY BROWN MALOUF
Twenty-five years is a long time in Dallas, a city where it seems the newest is always the best, where
trends hardly have time to happen before they're gone and the next one looms. That goes double for the
restaurant business; eating out is Dallas's favorite recreation, and the most common complaint of local
restaurateurs is the fickleness of Dallas diners, who count themselves out of it if they're not seen at the
latest hot spot the week it opens. Twenty-five years ago things were different. This was a city just beginning
to crest. Dallas had only one skyline then. LBJ was a muddy ditch. Piano was way out of town, and Addison
was dry. Food was a different story, too. There were no That, Ethiopian, Vietnamese, or Korean restaurants.
Chinese food was Cantonese; Italian food meant red sauce. Seafood was fried, or broiled and sauced-
never blackened or served raw. No one had invented New American; Cajun food was still across the river
and back in the bayous.
Formal dinners then were French, or they fit into that vague category known as "Continental." Lovers Lane,
the Miracle Mile, was home to a triumvirate of the best of these: Mr. Peppe, Marcel's, and Dominique's.
Expense account favorites for the two-martini-lunch bunch were Arthur's, Mario's, Old Warsaw, and
Chateaubriand. Steak was still the ail-American meal-Dun-ston's was grilling theirs over mesquite long
before mesquite was chic, not just cheap.
What's surprising is how many of these names are still familiar. They may not be as visible as the new kids
in town, but they do steady business and fill a valued niche in Dallas's dining scene. Most of them have
survived this long not just because they serve good food, but because they possess a certain personality-
an aura created by owners who come in every night and waitresses who have been there, in some cases,
for twenty years. Swimming against the current, these places offer their customers the comforts of tradition
and dependability rather than the shock of the new.
Some of the old restaurants have come and gone, and then come again, like the reborn Chateaubriand;
some, like S & S Tearoom, have moved and changed so completely with the times that only the name
remains to remind us of how it used to be. Some have proliferated into chains, like El Fenix and El Chico,
but most of them are still what they once were, unchanged by waves of radicchio and lemon grass,
untouched by celebrity chefs or gourmet pizza. Still standing proud are some grandes-dames as big, posh,
and expensive as ever: Mario's, Old Warsaw, Arthur's. Other mem-bers of the twenty-five-year club include a
couple of Mexican places and a couple of old-style Italian ones (Pietro's and Il Sorrento). Filling out the list
are a number of low-profile, unpretentious neighborhood coffee shops and cafés-Kel's Restaurant, the
Hungry Jockey. The Mecca- kept alive not by transient herds of trendies, but by neighborhood businesses
whose employees enjoy a friendly break and a home-style meal in the middle of a busy day.
Following are reviews of some of my favorite golden oldies, plus an all-star roster of restaurants that have
celebrated their silver anniversaries.
Mr. Peppe
In December, the rumor mill had it that Mr. Peppe was leaving-the last of the fine old dining establishments
to desert the Miracle Mile. As it turns out, the rumor was both right and wrong. Albert Schaufel-berger, "Mr.
Peppe" to many of us, has gone, but Mr. Peppe, which has been serving Swiss-French cuisine from that
same location for thirty-one good years, is definitely staying put.
The place looks much as it always did-a pastel mural of a Swiss landscape covers one wall, a mock wine
cellar under brick arches decorates the other half of the room. And the menu is certainly familiar-crabmeat
Peggy, artichoke Elizabeth, sautéed sole, chocolate mousse. Order the pepper steak-a flavorful cut flamed
tableside expertly and discreetly-or that delicious dinosaur, beef Wellington. The fish is unflamboyantly
prepared- simply sauced and accurately cooked-and the specials are generally a good bet. The price of an
entree includes a salad, soup, and vegetable, adding up to an excellent bargain. Service is old-style
excellent-overseen in the past by the ever-present Albert and now by the new owner. Barnaby
Schrenkheisen. owner of the now-defunct Schrenkheisen's in Rockport. Schrenkheisen, who celebrated
his own wedding in the restaurant, jumped at the chance when he heard that Schaufel-berger was ready to
sell. "But a lot of peopie still expect to see Albert here," he admits. "People celebrate their weddings, births,
anniversaries, even divorces, here, and they think Albert is part of their family." To make the transition
easier, Albert continued to come in for several months, saying adieu to long-time customers and
introducing them to the new "Mr. Peppe '
Casa Dominguez
Tex-Mex they come, Tex-Mex they go, but Dominguez (the casa and the man) endures. Pete Dominguez is
usually to be found at the original Cedar Springs location (though he now owns several sibling
restaurants), still greeting regulars by name and introducing himself to newcomers. Pete moved to Dallas
from Austin in 1957 and opened Casa Dominguez in 1963, serving "Austin-style" Mexican food. There's a
large population of Dallasites (not all of them Texas Exes), who think that's the best kind, so Dominguez
was an immediate hit and has remained popular ever since. If you doubt it's so, check out the walls; they're
covered with testimonials and autographed photographs from his celebrated clientele. If you wonder why
it's so, check out the food. The chips are fresh, hot, and replenished often. The hot sauce is flavorful and
hot. The nachos are smothered in beans and cheese, the enchiladas in rich chili. The "Pete-za" is as great
a combination of classic ingredients as a frito pie: taco meat, jalapenos, cheese, and onions sandwiched
in a sautéed flour tortilla and topped with a scoop of guacamole. Everything is as it should be-and if it's not,
Dominguez is there to find out why.
Highland Park Pharmacy
It is my feeling that a grilled cheese and a chocolate shake at Highland Park Pharmacy will go a long way
toward curing what ails you-whether you're soul-sick, heartsick, or just plain old sick. There are those who
disagree-who believe that nothing will do, in extremis, but a chocolate soda and a "Palm Beach" (pimento
cheese, to the uninitiated). No matter; it may not be the incomparable counter cuisine that does the trick
anyway, but the fact that the Pharmacy is, literally, incomparable. There are few drugstore soda fountains
left, and the reassuring feeling that this is a place where Wal-ly, the Beav, and even the Nelson family would
feel right at home has its own restorative value. There's nothing cute or quaint about the Pharmacy-tiny two-
top tables are the ugliest possible brown Formica, counter stools are standard. "Functional" is the most
upbeat comment you could make about the furnishings, and while the service is highly efficient, it's not
necessarily cheerful. The upbeat part of the Pharmacy experience comes from your fellow eaters-there's a
friendship factor at work when you're lined up elbow-to-elbow with strangers. People gladly slide over to
make a double out of two singles, and they're happy to tell you they'll be leaving soon if there's not a stool in
sight.
II Sorrento
I can't help imagining that Paul Draper, designer of the famous Sfuzzi interiors with their classical
architecture and crumbling frescoes, ate at Il Sorrento as a child. Surely, the Disneyesque completeness of
those Italian arcades, fake piazzas, courtyards, and classical statues was an early inspiration, It may seem
a little corny now, but the extravagance of it all still gives you the heady feeling of having walked into a
Hollywood fantasy-red and gold carpet in all directions, the dark ceiling like a night sky overhead, service
with a flourish, and all of it set against the background music of a strolling accordion player (the theme from
The Godfather is a favorite request). Most of the food ranks as classic Fifties Italian. Seafood is prepared
with lots of garlic, lemon, and olive oil; the man with the breadbox around his neck is ever ready to serve you
another hot roll. Lasagna is thick, cheesy, and heavily sauced: fresh tortellini comes with cheese and
cream. "Light" is not a word you would use to describe many things on the menu, but subtlety is not what
we seek at this Cyrano of Italian restaurants-we come here for its irresistible panache.
Mario's
My parents believed that children should learn how to eat out. So once a year or so they would stretch the
family budget and their patience and take all three of us kids out to eat Someplace Really Nice. Someplace
they would rather go by themselves. One New Year's Eve when I was about eleven, they took us all to
Mario's. I still remember the dark red rooms and the glittering Venetian glass, the sip of wine I was allowed
and the chicken Kiev my father ordered for me. It was the ultimate in eating out, and I felt as glamorous as a
movie star. Mario's still makes you feel that way, and it's been serving Dallas diners for nearly forty-five
years. In that time it's had its ups and downs; right now. with former chef Antonio Avona back in the kitchen,
it seems to be on an upswing. The gently Italian menu is executed with confidence-cannelloni with meat
and spinach was lovely, the Caesar salad classic. The sausage and cheese lasagna ("Pope John's
favorite dish"), was rich; the veal Milanesa surprisingly light. It will be interesting to see what changes Avona
will make on his new menu-the list could use some sparkle, but you don't want to tamper with tradition too
much. Meanwhile. Mario's still lays on the luxury; whenever I go there, I think of my children, remember my
parents, and marvel. Dallas Oldies But Goodies
Arthur's, 8350 N. Central Expwy. Brownie's, 5519 East Grand. Burger House, 6913 Hillcrest. Campisi's
Egyptian Restaurant, 5610 Mockingbird.
Casa Dominguez, 2127 Cedar Springs. Dean's Seafood Restaurant, 7801 Inwood. Highland Park
Cafeteria, 4611 Cole at Knox.
Highland Park Pharmacy, 3229 Knox. Hong Kong Restaurant, 9055 Garland Rd. Hungry Jockey, 1417
Preston Forest Square.
Il Sorrento, 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. Kel's Restaurant, 5337 Forest Lane. Kuby's Sausage House, 6601
Snider Plaza.
Mario's Restaurant, 135 Turtle Creek Village.
Mecca Restaurant, 10422 Harry Hines. Mr. Peppe, 5617 Lovers Lane. Old Warsaw Restaurant, 2610 Maple.
Pietro's Italian Restaurant, 5722 Richmond.
Prince of Hamburgers, 5200 Lemmon. Red Bryan's Smokehouse, 3383 Lombardy. S&S Restaurant, 260
Inwood Village. Sonny Bryan's Smokehouse, 2202 Inwood. Southern Kitchen, 2356 W. Northwest Hwy.
Vincent's, 3004 W. Northwest Hwy.
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